Grace is a better skier than me!

We've been having a fair amount of health issues in our household (or is that apartmenthold or flathold here?), but in between, Grace and I have managed to get out twice to ski. And let me tell you, I could not be prouder -- she is doing great!

The first ski outing was to a place called Klippitztörl, which is a bit further than Hebalm, where the kids learned to ski. We took something called the Schnee Bus (snow bus), which is a bus trip organized by the local sporting goods giant, Giga Sports. They negotiate a group rate for the lift ticket and share the cost of the bus. It's a pretty good deal, but Grace wasn't too happy when she found out the bus left at 7:30a from a mall that was a 20-minute tram ride away. But she was in good sprits for the 1:15 bus drive out into the Austrian mountains. And I was glad someone else was driving as we hit some pretty deep snow about 40 minutes into the drive.

When we pulled into the parking lot there is one hill right in front of you. Grace looked up and said, "is that a black hill?" For those of you that don't ski, ski hills are rated in terms of difficulty. In Austria, "bunny hills" (and yes, they call it that even though "bunny" and "hill" are not the same in English and German!) are not rated, typically. Blue is the rating for an "intermediate hill," whereas red is for "difficult," and black is for "expert." Anyway, in ski school Grace had only skied on a pretty easy and short bunny hill.

A horrible iPhone picture of Grace atop the Blue bunny hill.

Anyway, after renting our equipment, changing our clothes, and getting our pass from the bus driver, we checked out that map. That "black hill" turned out to be the bunny hill! And it was rated "blue." So, needless to say, Grace was a little intimidated heading to the top of the hill on the "tow line." But we skied down without incident, with me trailing behind her, just in case. After about five or six runs she said, "I think I have this figured out, you don't need to go behind me anymore." And after 10 runs, she said, after stating multiple times that she would "NEVER" ride a chair lift (too dangerous), "let's try the chair lift for a real blue."



Well, she fell a few times, but nothing serious and she just did great, what can I say! And by now I was starting to realize something that has limited my skiing by learning later in life ... I have an internal governor that says, "that's pretty fast, you might want to slow down." But she doesn't have that. So, while I try to make turns going down the hill to check my speed, little Ms. Speed Demon gets tired of making turns and just goes all out at times -- and then waits for me to catch up! This was especially true the next week ... but I'm getting ahead of myself.

Anyway, due to a language mixup with the bus driver, we couldn't get our food off of the bus and so ended up skiing pretty much non-stop from 9:30 to 4:00. I was pretty tired at the end, but Grace never flagged. We ended up with like 30 runs on the bunny hill and 2 runs on the "real blue" hill complete with not-so-scary (according to Grace now) chairlift rides up. With the bus ride back and the tram from then, I think it was 6:30p or so when we arrived at home, full of stories of our great adventure.

So, given that was one long day, we were happy the next week when my friend, Jörg, offered to drive to our destination, Präbichl, and he didn't want to pick us up until 10:30a! The drive to
Präbichl was a little longer and this time we were heading northwest out of Graz, right into the heart of the Austrian Alps. I tell you, this is a beautiful country and where we went skiing was breathtaking. And with over 2m of snow on the ground (think 6 feet or so), we had ideal skiing conditions.

We bought a noon-4p-close pass and hit the slopes soon after noon. We took one run on the flattest, widest, and longest bunny hill I've ever seen and Grace declared herself ready for the chair lift. She was a little intimidated by the fact that is was a 4-person chair, but quickly got the hang of it and we enjoyed the 5-minute ride to the top. We were a little confused where to go, but our friend Jörg convinced us we were ready for Run #1. I thought I saw a red sign at the top, but thought, "no, he wouldn't head us down a red to start ... Grace has never skied a red run before." Well, I was wrong ... he did! We made it down in excellent fashion and we headed right back up. This time, Run #2, which had a blue sign. Now Grace realized she had skied a red run. If you thought I was proud of her, then you have no idea how proud she was of herself! And, as I alluded to earlier, there were times she must have waited 2 or 3 full minutes for me and Jörg to catch up (Jörg was hanging back with me; he's an excellent skier, often heading out days at a time as a teenager hiking up mountains with seal skins on his skis and then skiing down in one long day). And then we discovered Run #3 that ended with a long stretch that was parallel to the bunny hill. We ended up racing that, flat out as fast as we could go and Grace won a couple of times!

I'll end just by saying that Grace has a long way to go to have that effortless Austrian downhill style (and she still skis without poles), but it is just AMAZING at how comfortable she is on skis and how much she is enjoying this! And keep in mind: She is 8-years old and only had about 6-7 hours of instruction before these two outings. When I think how much confidence this is building in her, I'm just overjoyed. And I have to say that I like having a "ski buddy" to hang out with :-)

Russ

Advent at Home

Submitted by Sue

One of the ways we take the edge off the anticipation of Christmas is to light the Advent wreath and put things up on an Advent calendar. We have a a nice Felt Pocket hanging calendar at home in which we put little crèche figures or an ornament or a sweet, and the kids take one out every day. Not having our usual props, we went a little commercial and let the kids have a Lego (Henry) and Playmobil (Grace) Advent calendar, but we also went a little homemade by stringing up a clothesline with each of us donating socks to make up 24 days. Each day the kids took turns looking inside the socks. Most days it was a sweet, or a note to do something nice for someone, or most popular with the kids, a note to find something - like a little giftie from mom or grandma (socks, earmuffs from the Advent markets, activity book or ornament). But the kids also got onto it, occasionally picking out the sweet or my favorite, Grace making notes to everyone telling them why she loved them.

This was a lot of fun and we got to hang up stockings even though we didn't do it for Christmas (the kids put out their ski helmets for Santa).

Advent Wreathes

submitted by Sue

At home in the US, we light the candles on the Advent wreath. It's a tradition that I grew up with, and it's fun for the kids to participate. We have a little poem that we say as we light the candles - everyone has a line. At home we have a 4-candle candle holder that we use, not bothering with an actual wreath. But here there is no way to avoid the wreath! The farmer's market by our apartment had stands and stands of them, decorated in many colors, fancy and simple. I wish I had taken pictures of them all! We got ours the day before Advent started just as the farmer's market was starting close down. The vender saw us coming and reduced his prices so we'd buy candles for the kids as well. Here's our set, after Christmas.

Advent wreaths really were everywhere - on sale at stores and at venders at the tram station, and not just for sale. Grace and Henry both had them in their rooms at school and they were lit everyday by their teachers. In restaurants and doctors' offices there would be an Advent wreath sitting on the bar, counter or hostess table - and always had just the right number of candles that had been lit. (I didn't see candles burning in a public place, just that the candles had been lit.)

After 4 weeks, our greens were looking a little ragged so Russ and Grace picked up a single candle for Christmas day. This was joined by candles that the kids made at their schools. Henry's is the hand-dipped wax candle and Grace's is the flower pot snowman.

Our lighted candle is glowing,
Making the darkness bright,
Shining on our family,
Gathered here tonight.

Fun Fact: Grace recited this poem at her class holiday program. She did awesome!

Catch Up - Advent in Graz

submitted by Sue

Well, we tried really hard to keep things in chronological order, but sometimes things happen fast and there just isn't time to get things written up before something else happens. And when two people are submitting posts, it was bound to get mixed up anyway.

I've got a couple of posts about Advent that I've been writing in my mind but just haven't taken the time to put on paper or computer. Turns out sitting in a doctor's office (or specifically a CT scan office) is the perfect time to write things up. And magically, my iTouch was both with me and charged (this never happens).

Advent is a special time to be in Graz. The streets are decorated with lights and Christmas trees are hung from above. (Interestingly, on some streets trees are hung right side up and others upside down.) The Advent Markets open in mid-November, work begins on an ice sculpture of the Nativity, and a huge Christmas tree is put up on the town square.

Also called Christmas Markets, the Advent Markets are a little bit like a street fair or a craft fair that goes on until Christmas. The markets are scattered around the courtyards and plazas near the City Center. Each market has a theme - local products and crafts, fine arts, international crafts, kiddie rides. Some of the markets have activities for kids to do on Fridays -- like candle making or cookie decorating. Most of the markets have music playing. Sometimes it's the vendors, but some markets have live music scheduled for the weekend hours. The markets are open all day (starting at 10am or so) but busiest in the evenings as the sun goes down (by 4:30 or 5pm!). Also running through the markets is this little Christmas train.

The market booths vary from canvas tents to wooden boothes, some simple and some very ovally-modern-shaped (the fine arts market booths). Unfortunately, we failed to get any pictures of them. Each market has a couple of booths dedicated to food and drink. Drinks include apple ciders and rum punches and the local favorites Gluhwein (mulled wine with cinnamon, cloves and oranges) and Gluhschi (I think this is based on a local wine but I can't verify my source -- no match on google!). The drinks are THE social thing to do. You meet your friends at the markets to drink and hang out. It's all outside and about 32 degrees F. or less. One booth we visited was making Belgian waffles which you can get with marmalade or schokolade or zimt (cinnamon). Very yummy.

Many restaurants that have outdoor seating will have all their tables out and each chair has a blanket draped over it, and sure enough the next time you walk by, people will be sitting out having drinks. It's a very festive time of year and makes the early sunset much easier to take. And it's fun to see people out and about, bundled up and enjoying themselves, even in the cold.

"Free" TV/Radio

One of the valuable aspects of living somewhere else is the opportunity to evaluate some hidden value statements about your culture. So, that's the lead in to a short story ...

The other day our door bell rang. I answered the door and there were two men that asked me if I had a TV or a radio in the flat? I said that I did (mind you, the tv provided by the owner of the flat is an ancient thing and we only get 2 channels on it). They then asked me my name, which I told them. They checked their clipboard and they said that our tv was not registered. To which I replied, "you have to register your tv? Why?" The answer to "why" is that it's the law, but "why is it the law that I have to register my tv?" Well, instead of dragging you threw the entire conversation, I'll skip to the punch line.

You register you tv/radio here because "free" tv (what you get on your tv without cable or any other service) is what we refer to in the US as "public television." And like, PBS in the US, there are no commercials on the "free" tv stations here (we had noticed that). The kids watch some children's programming and we're always bewildered by the start times because shows are about 20 minutes each instead of 30 minutes, so the start times seem pretty random. Of course, this is because of the lack of commercials and the programming was adapted from "commercial tv" (some from the US, some from France, some from Germany, etc.) And by the way, the content of our "free" tv here seems to be somewhere between PBS and commercial tv in the US (they carry news, sports programs, kids programs, dramas, etc., but somehow it doesn't seem exactly like commercial tv in the US -- we assume when you get cable, you get stations like that).

Anyway, which system would you like best? Commercial tv at home for anyone to watch for free if they have a tv, but loaded with commercials? Or, commercial-free tv that you HAVE to pay for no matter how much you watch (you can't just avoid donating to PBS here!)?

So, we'll pay the 24 euros a month for the last 6 months we are here to watch two stations about 30 minutes a day. We're not mad, because at least we are getting a story out of it :-)

Russ

Schnee Schule

Austrians are great skiers, especially alpine skiers.  Those of you that are the age of Sue and I may remember, Hermann Maier ("the Herminator"), who won two gold medals in the 1998 Olympics (among many, many, other world titles).  And beyond their prowess in competitive skiing, you certainly get the impression that EVERYONE in Austria skies.  Maybe Anna, our babysitter, said it best , "when you live in Austria, why would you go anywhere else in the winter?"  Is it possible that she gets the whole month of February off of classes to provide Austrian college students a chance to go skiing for a month?  Anyway, when in Rome ... 

We enrolled Henry and Grace in three days of ski school (Schnee Schule) this past week.  This started as a way for Grace to gain some confidence ahead of when her school would go to ski school for a whole week in February (that's right, no class this week kids, we're hitting the slopes!).  But to be honest, I wanted both of them to learn when they were young.  I didn't, and it has always been harder for me to ski than my peers that learned when they were younger.  And like I said, we're in Austria, so it seemed like too good of an opportunity to pass up.

Day 1:  Grace on the training course with instructor, Fabian.

And let me say, both kids did great!  Both went from having A LOT of anxiety back in October when we sprung this on them to feeling really comfortable skiing.  In between October and earlier this week their were periods where Grace and Henry both said, "I'm not doing it!"  This seemed to die down a bit as we bought them their ski outfits (they both loved those!), but you could still sense a fair bit of anxiety Thursday morning as we made the hour-long drive up into the mountains.  At the end of the Day 1 Grace said, "Dad, thanks for forcing us to come to ski school."  And Henry immediately chimed in, "yeah, Dad, thanks."  Color me a proud and happy parent!

Of course, as Grace is older, etc., she progressed further than Henry in the three days, but they were both on the bunny hill the last day doing really well.  Their instructor declared that Grace was ready for the "real" runs the next time she came and that Henry probably only needs one or two more hours before he'd be ready.  Can you believe that?  I still find it somewhat hard to believe even though I was there to witness the transformation :-)

And remember how I said that I wished that I had learned to ski when I was younger? Well, as Sue has never been downhill skiing, we decided to have her tag along with the kids in ski school. And let's just say that it didn't work out as well as it did with the kids. We'll have to reassess this plan of getting us all out of the slopes together.

Russ

Barcelona Holiday Trip

Just returned from a week-long trip to Barcelona.  Would be pretty easy to make this a long post, but hopefully I can just "hit the highlights" and convey our trip.

Like the sporty blue ear phones on the double-decker bus?

First theme:  the weather was BEAUTIFUL the entire time we were there.  I'd be lying if I said we never saw a cloud, but not if I said that we rarely saw a cloud.  It was just "abundant" sunshine every single day.  The highs were also in the low 60's, which is quite warm for this time of year for Barcelona (or, so say the locals).  But it could still be chilly due to the wind when we were riding on top of the open-top double-decker bus or down by the beach.  Not a big deal, but the sunlight is better for appreciating the art as one is about and enjoying the city.


Second theme:  much of our time in Barcelona turned out to be related to "art."  The two artists that we dominate the city are Joan Miro and Antoni Gaudi.  And let me just say right here ... it is just a coincidence that Gaudi's architecture is sometimes labeled with the adjective, gaudy.  But I had to look that up!

What a lovely choice, Sue!

Miro first.  As you'll see below, his art is characterized by bright colors and simple geometric shapes combined to form an image.  We visited his museum, employing the "gift shop first, scavenger hunt" approach to the visit (we were 3 for 4 this time!).  There, we bought a "simple book" about his life and the kids listened to me read the whole thing over two settings and looked through a 600-page book on his art on New Year's Eve.  And there were other evidence of Miro throughout Barcelona, who has embraced its artistic heritage.

Gaudi House:  Casa Batllo with a dragon-ridge roof!

Now Gaudi.  I sometimes forget that architects are artists, but that would be impossible with Gaudi.  His style first, is artistic (and some say, childlike), but any examination of his structures provides an appreciation for his appreciation of nature.  And like Miro, his impact on Barcelona is widespread and is, in fact, continuing as work continues on his centerpiece cathedral as well as new tiles added all along the city that are fashioned on his "style."  But as an engineer, it was really something to behold upon visiting his signature house (Casa Batllo).  I loved the light "well" that allows light from the middle of the house and the sustainability construction techniques employed in the late 1800's.

Gaudi Church:  Sagrada Familia

Henry runs back from the waves :-)

Third theme:  the beach!  I'd say overall the kids liked the trip and everything about it (except the daily battle about food below!), and they had the most fun just hanging out on the beach.  For those of you that know me, I'm not a "beach person."  First, it tends to be too passive for me.  Second, I hate how the sand follows you everywhere you go for days.  The kids definitely solve the first, using their imagination to come up with active games.  But there is no solving the second!  But, as I said, the kids loved going and on New Years Day when we let them set the schedule, it is where they wanted to return on their last full day in Barcelona (along with a park and the Hard Rock Cafe for dinner!).

The daily battle about food!  Yes, it's true.  Not everything was perfect on the trip.  Every day (heck, 2-3 times a day!), the tension was between what Sue and Russ wanted to eat (in Spain?  Tapas!) and what the kids wanted to eat (Grace, only pasta or french fries ... Henry, nothing!).  As you might imagine, we compromised.  We found an "ok" tapas place that had pasta near the hotel (two nights), a nice tapas place one night, Hard Rock one night, and then a nicer pasta place and pizza for the other two.

There's more to share, and I'd welcome Sue to post a subsequent comment, but I wanted to get this posted before our next adventure ... ski school!

Russ

p.s.  I don't know why, but I got the biggest kick out of seeing parrots all over the city :-)

Christmas in Austria

Just a few notes and pics to commemorate our Christmas in Austria.

Christmas Eve Day was spend skating, shopping, and fending off suggestions to open "just 1" present NOW!

Our Decorated Austrian Christmas Tree

The Christmas tradition in Austria is for the Christ Kind to deliver presents on Christmas Eve afternoon.  Grace's German teacher said that the Dad takes the kids to the movies and the Mom stays home.  The room with the Christmas tree is closed off and when the Christ Kind leaves, she (it's a female angel) rings a bell, which lets the family know the tree is decorated and the presents are there.  This (the bell ringing) usually happens just as the Dad and kids are returning (how's that for timing!?).

Well, we had a twist ... our kids and Sue decorated the tree one afternoon (not being able to wait for me!).  And, as it turns out, we were heading to church for a 4p family service (with an English translation :-)  I "forgot" to turn off the iron and had to head back to the apartment before catching up with the others.  So, when we returned, there were two gifts left for the children by Christ Kind :-)  We also let them open another present each and had a simple dinner.  Sue had ordered a copy of "The Night Before Christmas" so that I could continue that tradition (reading them that story before bed).

Stockings?  Who needs stockings!?

During the night, Santa Claus made his usual deliveries.  We had no stockings, so the kids put out their ski helmets by the cookies, milk and carrot.  Santa got the hint :-)  The kids loved all of their presents.

Our friends' son and Grace playing a game on the stairs

We had friends over in the afternoon.  The mom is from the US, the Dad is from Italy, and the son is tri-lingual!  The kids played well together, we all played some games, ate some good Austrian food (as best as we can!) and drank some good Italian wine.

Frohe Weihnachten und ein glückliches Neues Jahr!

Russ

A Few Pre-Christmas Observations

Short post today on this, Christmas Eve.

The kids were in school all week, ending at the usual time on Friday (Dec. 23).

Sue and I had a sitter come last night and went out to finish our shopping.  Many, many stores had no one in them except clerks standing around with nothing to do.  The stores closed at their normal time for a Friday night, 7p.

Stores close today between 1 and 2p.  We have to do our grocery shopping because stores will be closed tomorrow (and maybe, Monday -- we better check that out).  We hope to fit in a round of ice skating.

You can still buy your tree at the main park in the city, near our apartment.

We expect Christ Kind to come sometime this afternoon while we are out at church and Santa to come overnight.

Frohe Weihnachten!

Russ

A Busy Weekend in December

We had a very busy weekend.  And by we, it was mostly Grace, Henry and I, as Sue is trying to recover from being sick.  I missed Sue's company, but enjoyed the time with the kids.  And I definitely want her to recover quickly with Christmas and our trip to Barcelona coming soon!

So, where to start?  I guess at the beginning.  Saturday started with a trip to the Farmer's market and the butcher.  I finally bought some lamb.  I've been wanting to diversity a bit and we eat so much chicken back in the U.S. (and we aren't big beef eaters).  So, first duck, now lamb.  And it was delicious for dinner later that day, I must say :-)

Anyway, I rushed home and collected Grace.  We headed over to the outdoor skating rink for the 10a opening.  When I could hear an announcer about a block away, I knew something was wrong.  Anyway, the rink was host to a children's hockey tournament.  They had the ice all day and so, after consoling ourselves, we watched a little hockey.  It was fun.  The teams were mixed age (probably 5-8?) and mixed gender.  We were captivated by one girl that was much taller and more talented than anyone else on the ice.  Unfortunately the puck always seemed to find the goalie's stick, but she was still fun to watch.

With skating out for the day, what to do?  Well, I had this thought in the back of my head that I wanted to get the kids their skiing outfits for Christmas.  But we didn't want it to be a present, as we wanted to have them pick them out, etc.  So, Grace and I took an exploratory trip over to K&O (pronounced, "Kah unt Oh"), the big department store.  I had heard from someone they were having a sale on skis, ski clothes, etc.  When we arrived and could not find skis, etc., but saw the store was connected to the large sporting goods store, we figured it out.  

Grace quickly found many outfits that she liked, which is good because the sizes weren't always in inventory.  You know how that goes.  And it took Grace a while to get used to the multiple layers in the pants, etc.  But we quickly got her squared away and were helped by a nice young woman who spent a year in Michigan with an exchange family in high school.

When we went home, Henry was motivated to join us (he was not into the ice skating!) for a return trip.  He really liked Grace's "overalls" (ski pants with suspenders).  He wouldn't settle for pants without them!  He found a great pair in lime green ("just like airport fire fighters!").  Unfortunately, they were really pricey (twice as expensive as Grace's).  But Henry can be very flexible and is happy with the color combination that he came up with.

After a failed attempt to buy an outfit for me (I knew I was pushing my luck with two kids in a busy store!), we stopped by the ski equipment shop and bought the kids helmets.  They loved the kind with the built-in goggles and wanted to get home quickly to model everything for Sue!

I then went grocery shopping to make sure we didn't run out of staples Sunday, made dinner (lamb, marinaded with peanut satay, rice, sauteed bell peppers with garlic), and then collapsed on the couch with everyone to watch a DVD!  And this was just Saturday!

Sunday was all about getting back over to the skating rink for Grace and me.  And now she had a helmet of her own to wear!  We arrived at 10a on the dot and there were at least 20 people already skating!  I guess they opened early today (language-skill deficit strikes again!).   But they had skates in both of our sizes and we were off.  Grace hugged the wall the first few times around, but gained courage within a half hour or so and was out there skating away from the wall.  Towards the end we even had a contest to see who could weave around more kids in a lap (I won the first lap, 7 to 4, but she won the next lap, 5-1!).  It was so great to see her go from, "this is hard and I'm kind of scared" to, "did you see me get around that kid that fell?!"  Priceless, I tell you!

They had a great little tent setup next door so that we could warm up with hot chocolate after our 2 hours of skating.  They even had a kids area (patchens only, please!) and live music.  When I texted Sue that we'd be home about 1p for lunch, she said that she and Henry wondered how long we'd be gone!

After lunch Grace, Henry and I went over to "scooter park," which is located on the other side of Stadt Park (the large park near our apartment).  It is setup with traffic signs/lights, railroad tracks, lane markers, a hill, etc.  The kids played some game that involved locking Grace up in a jail cell and Henry running away (I didn't quite get that, but I was listening to my German language CD).  I did get it when they asked me to be the robber and to run around scooter park and they would chase me (each taking different routes, cutting me off, etc.).  They were mad when I stopped at the train tracks (there was a stop sign!).  They said no robber would do that.  After tiring of catching me (and I was tired too!), we walked/scooted home.  

In the last few days, Christmas trees have invaded Stadt Park, with multiple sites to buy trees from.  And in fact, we had just decided what to do about a Christmas tree in our apartment (smallish, but not Charlie Brown size).  So, given that we saw a very nice one on the way over, and it was still available on the way back, we bought it.  It wasn't too much of a walk back to the apartment, but I had to rest a bit (even a small tree gets heavy after a few hundred meters!).  The kids went up to open the doors for me to move it out onto the deck until we can buy some Christmas lights.

And we had one more event for the day ... our friend David, who sings in the Graz Opera, was playing the part of Goliath in a children's musical at a local church (right next to the Opera House and the Farmer's Market).  (Grace thought it was funny that David was playing Goliath instead of David, but I think she got the point when she saw the musical!)  It was all in German, but it was short, and being a musical, it was a pretty simple plot line.  Grace said that it wasn't as scary as it could have been because we knew who Goliath was (he doesn't look scary below, but he did walking in, swing a 2-meter sword!).  I think everyone enjoyed it and Sue was feeling well enough to join us, which was nice.  We hope to see David sing Christmas Eve or Christmas Day at the "big Catholic church" on Herrengasse (the main pedestrian street in Graz).

David's not that tall, really.  He's walking on 6" tree stumps!

Just five more days of school/work and then Christmas will be here ... then we rest!

Russ

Krampus and Nikolaus

Tuesday morning (Dec. 6) 6-year old Henry asked, "Is it Nikolaus day?"  "Yes," I answered.  Then Henry replied with glee, "Yay! I didn't get taken away by Krampus!" He then started rooting thru his shoes, only to discover a rock. He wasn't sure what a rock meant.  "Oh, Henry, I thought we were supposed to put our shoes out tonight. But Nikolaus is in town today. I'm sure he'll stop by tonight." Henry is learning all these traditions in kindergarten but communicating details is not one of Henry's strong suits, so we are behind the curve as parents.

In case you aren't familiar with Krampus and Nikolaus, it goes something like this.  Nikolaus, who is a bishop, visits children on Dec. 6 to give them sweets and nuts. If children put their shoes out (either outside or between the double windows), Nikolaus will leave them some treats. However, Nikolaus travels with a devil-like character called Krampus, who takes naughty children away from their parents and beats them with a switch.

Krampus day is Dec 5, and it is not uncommon to see them out and about that evening. A friend was telling me that some families have Krampus parties on the 5th.  If you go to one of these parties you are to bring a poem about each of your children, identifying how naughty they are. Some children cry when their poems are read!  Are you getting an idea about Krampus?

Graz had their Krampus parade several weeks ago. We went to see what it was all about.  I can quite honestly say that this parade is the most culturally different event that I have experienced here.  Many civic groups or other organizations have their own costumes, and they each are given a slot in the parade. There are lots of groups with 8-12 Krampuses each. These guys are frightening!  They stomp down the road and run at the crowds and get in your face. Some beat their drums as though they are on the warpath.  Some of them drag smoking cauldrons behind them. Some carry flaming torches. Some have chains that they drag on the ground. The sounds and smells are very real and close and ominous.  They look for children and hold out their hands to them as if they are going to grab them and take them away.  If a child is brave enough to take their hand, most Krampuses will just quickly shake it and then let go, but I saw one guy pull a child toward him and that seriously freaked out the kid.  Our kids hid the entire time and we ended up leaving before the end (after seeing perhaps 100 Krampuses and 3 Nikolauses - and, yes, Nikolaus walks along with them.)

Nikolaus day is Dec. 6, and as you can imagine, quite different.  Nikolaus visited both of the kids' schools, spoke to the kids and handed out goodie bags. And the kids made Nikolauses at school.  Nikolaus was scheduled to be at various advent markets around Graz's city center in the late afternoon so we went to find him. Along the way, we met several Nikolauses and they came up to the kids to talk to them and give them treats.  In front of the Catholic church on the main street they had tables out where you could make your own bishop hat (sorry, I don't know the name of this) and several women were singing Christmas carols (some of the Nikolauses were women).  It was a very pleasant stroll down Herrangasse (the street), very different from the Krampus parade! Eventually we met up with Russ and realized we missed Nikolaus while buying trinkets at the advent markets! We walked over to another market (at Glockenspielplatz, Liz and Jerry). And knew we'd found him when we heard the clip clop of the house drawn carriage.  He got out for pictures and the kids each got a chocolate Nikolaus.

This was NOT like waiting in line for Santa Claus.  In fact there were very few people even approaching him -- and nothing compared to the crowds who turned out for the Krampus parade.  I should add, that Nikolaus is not Santa Claus.  Neither Nikolaus nor Santa Claus delivers Christmas gifts here - Christkind does - so to compare to Santa is not really a fair comparison.

As we came home that the evening, Henry said, "No one from my class was taken by Krampus.  No one from my whole school!"

Sue

From Russ:  Even though Sue did a *great* job with this post, and I was scared just thinking about that parade again, you really need to see a video of the Krampus Parade.  We couldn't find one from Graz this year (they added barricades and that made them even wilder, I think), but you'll maybe get the idea by watching this from a few years ago:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkVnS6uwV8E.

Thanksgiving in Graz

Thanksgiving, of course, is an American holiday.  Well, what I mean is that the US version of Thanksgiving is an American story of thanks, bountiful harvest, cooperation, etc.  Many, many other cultures have something similar, typically celebrated earlier in the fall as a kind of Octoberfest, a celebration of the bounty of the harvest.

Anyway, all that to say, the fourth Thursday in November is not a holiday here of any kind.  So, what's an American family to do?  We decided to go ahead and send the kids to school (and also the next day instead of going shopping and consuming like fools).  I took the afternoon off so that we could have a "special dinner," but it was not our typical Thanksgiving dinner.  I cooked duck (still had a good taste in my mouth from Paris) and a typical Austrian dumpling.  Sue made her traditional cheese rolls.  We had brought some homemade Thanksgiving placemats with us from the US, which we used, and we talked about what we were thankful for.  It was quite nice and we weren't all stuffed to the gills, like normal!  That was not the case on Saturday ...

On Saturday we had dinner with four other "half-American" families.  Everyone contributed to the feast and we all shared stories of living in Graz/Austria as Americans.  The non-American partners talked about the times they lived in the US and how confusing our customs are.  It was quite funny.  Sue and I laughed and laughed about one story, which I am sure I will not be to do justice here, but it is the custom in the US of asking, "how's it going?"  In the US, of course, it is just, "what you say."  You mindlessly answer it and ask back, "how's it going?" (One friend, from the US, but teaching here, says that he actually has to teach his students just to answer "how's it going?" with "how's it going?" and they are so confused.)  It is not meant to be a question that is contemplated and given a thoughtful answer except under certain circumstances (close friend, private moment, usually only asking it like, "no, how are you doing?").  But Austrians take that question seriously.  One of our Austrian friends talked about being in the US and having that question asked of her while she was in line at the grocery store.  She said that she actually looked around and said, "but there are all these people in line."  Like, ok, even though I don't know you, I'll tell you, but it will take some time and I think all these people might become upset!

Henry and Grace playing a game at the kids' table

Another highlight of the evening was how we (adults) had time talking amongst ourselves.  The host family's "children" are 19 and 21.  And they both are just great with kids (we've already lined up, Anna, the 19-year old to babysit :-).  They kept the children entertained by decorating the table cloth, making crafts, playing games, etc.  For those parents out there, I'm sure you can understand the special joy of taking your kids to an event, where they don't particularly know anyone, and instead of clinging on you, they are engaged with other children and having a good time at the "kids table."  Bliss really.  Of course, we paid for it the next few days having stayed out too late and gotten them to bed late, etc.  But you know, life is like that.

So, yes, it was hard to be away at Thanksgiving and there are things that we missed.  But really, we had a great time and I'm sure we'll cherish our Austrian Thanksgiving for years to come.

Russ

Trip to Paris

As Sue's already posted, we had a trip to France a couple of weeks ago.  When we told the kids that we were going to spend a year in Europe we told them that they could each pick a spot for a trip.  Although I'm not sure Henry's still decided (I think LegoLand in Germany gets the nod), Grace, without hesitation said, "the Eiffel Tower in Paris!"

A good friend of mine, and a close research colleague teaches in Paris (at this ultra-selective university, Mines ParisTech -- to say it is the "MIT of France" kind of understates how selective it is).  He invited me to give a seminar to his research group and so the date was set for our trip.

We flew up on Thursday afternoon and Sue and the kids would fly back on Sunday while stayed through Monday and Tuesday to work, flying back Wednesday (the day before the American Thanksgiving, which is the subject of the next post, hopefully!).  That sounds like a "long weekend," but with needing a connecting flight to Paris, the train ride between terminals at Charles de Gaulle airport, the train from CDG to the city, the subway (with a connection!) from the train station to the neighborhood of our hotel, and then a 10-minute walk to our hotel ... well, Thursday and Sunday were really travel days.  But still, two full days in Paris ... you can't complain.

Ok, well to avoid this being a marathon post, I'll try to hit the highlights, which, of course, start with the Eiffel Tower -- the center of Grace's attraction to Paris.  For those that have been there, we went up to the second level.  As recommended in a book Sue read, the view from that level is really great and it is an open platform vs. the ride to the tippy top, where you have to stay inside.  And, although we didn't go to the top, I'm pretty sure the book was right about this recommendation.

And before I go any further in terms of what we saw, we have to talk a moment about Eiffel Tower trinkets.  This turned out to be quite the obsession of our children.  And apparently, this is a very big joke amongst Parisians.  All I can say, at least they are cheap (the first ones we bought were sold to us by a very friendly, quite persistent and effective salesman, at the low, low price of 5 for 1 euro!).  But I think these little ET keychains are an entry drug to larger, more expensive, larger margin ETs.  And, as you can see, we left with quite a few!


And in the picture you may have noticed a non-ET.  Well, that is none other than the Arc de Triumphe (on the green book).  Henry, as we pretty much guessed, loved to go somewhere with 8 "lanes" of traffic moving around a circle with a control logic all its own.  And so, he had to have an Arc!

So, after the ET and AdT, we headed back to the hotel for a dinner after a quite full day.  That brings us to Saturday.  We just had to get the kids to a museum and Sue, with her handy tips from the books, read that a good strategy was to go to the museum gift shop before you go in, let the kids pick out a postcard of a painting they like, and then have a scavenger's hunt in the museum.  What a great idea, huh?

As the museum of our affection we chose the Musée D'Orsay.  All the books say it is one of the more appealing "great" museums for kids and it isn't huge, like the Louvre, say, which might talk ALL DAY to find four paintings.  The only problem with this plan is that even in late November, Paris is packed with tourists!  We noticed this on Friday at the ET, where we waited a good hour or so to get tickets to go up, but Saturday at the MDO, wow, that was quite a line.  And, as it turns, out we had made plans to meet my friend for lunch with his family.  Anyway, to make a long story short, we balked the queue, my friend came over early and we walked around the River Seine and the Louvre Gardens on a beautiful late fall day in Paris.  We ended up at the food court area under the Louvre, which turns out to be a sneaky way in to get tickets.  And, in fact, we could see that we wouldn't have to wait at all to get tickets to go in.  So, no MDO, we're going to the Louvre!

But remember our little scavenger hunt game?  And my note about how it would take ALL DAY to find four specific paintings in a big museum?  Well, it did!  But it was fun, mostly.  And the reason I picked my painting to show off (besides the absolute massive size of it!) was that Henry was in a bit of a sour mood when we found his sculpture (very interesting choice, by the way) and we never did find Grace's and Sue's (the gift shop, it turns out, has so many postcards some of the paintings aren't even in the museum -- note to self for next time!).

As we left the L, we had a very nice surprise.  Sue (again with her books!) had read that on nice days in the summer you can go to these small ponds and rent a toy boat to sail around.  When she read this in cold Graz she had written it off as something that we'd be able to do in Paris.  But the weather was unseasonably warm while we were there (upper 50's) and sure enough, we stumbled onto one of these places.  It was really quite nice.  Sue said that it was meditative to push the boat out and wait for the wind to bring it back to the side ... she though she could of done it all day!

And we should have probably gone back to the hotel then.  But you know how it is, you're there, you're pretty close to some other major site, and you rationalize it (there will be a lot of restaurants over there and we've been to the ones by our hotel already).  Anyway, we went to Cathédrale de Notre Dame.  It was nice to see, but no one had the energy to climb stairs to the top or to walk through.  Dinner was a little "down" due to our energy.  The only thing that picked the kids back up was a trip through a few shops to buy yet another ET and the coveted AdT!

Sunday, was all about getting Sue and the kids to the airport on time.  We kind of overdid it, and I think they got there almost 2 hours ahead of their flight.  Sue said the trip home went well except for their luggage not making it (it was delivered later that evening).  But the nice thing about getting Sue and kids to the airport early was that I had the afternoon to explore a little more (the only thing I had to get done that day was finish my presentation).  I walked across town to Sacré Coeur (Sacred Heart) on a just beautiful day in Paris.  I climbed to the top, but even though it was a clear, sunny day, I could barely see the ET -- not sure if it was moisture, smog, or both.  But it was a pity!


I had a great time with my friend, making some progress on our research, meeting with folks, and, of course, eating some great food.  I'm not sure why, but I was especially focused on the smaller animals, eating lamb, duck, rabbit, frog legs, and a huge batch of shrimp, prawns, crabs and lobster.  But what did I take a picture of?  One of the best desserts I've ever had in my life ... profiteroles ... think creme puffs with ice cream inside and the best chocolate sauce on top!


My seminar was a big hit and my travels back were good.  I got back in time to go with Sue to a parent-teacher conference with Grace's teacher (went fine).  And then, the next day was Thanksgiving ... more about that in another post :-)

Russ

Fwd: Glad to be in Graz

Sorry for the long delay between postings. Russ is working on a
deadline to get a proposal done and I can't get into the blog account to
post things. I'm hoping this will get posted via e-mail.

In mid-November we took a quick trip to Paris and once Russ meets his
deadline, I'm sure he'll post some pictures about it.

What struck me about the trip (other than how many fun things there are
to do in Paris) was how glad I am that we chose to live in Graz. When
we decided to do a sabbatical in Europe, we thought it would be fun to
live in a city. It would be an interesting change from living in small
college towns. But the funny thing was, when we told people here in
Graz that we were excited to be in a city, they all said, "Oh, Graz is
just a small town. It's very safe." "Oh, Graz is just a small town.
It's not like Vienna, or Paris." Okay. I get that now.

In Graz everyone patiently waits for the traffic lights to change before
walking across a street - even if no cars are coming. In Paris we saw
two people run across a street with looks of terror on their faces --
even though they were crossing with the light! The traffic was crazy!

Also, I missed all the greetings that Austrians have. Now Paris has a
reputation for being rude to foreigners, but I didn't experience any of
that. We had people help us get our luggage through the subway
turnstiles, help direct us when we needed directions, and waitstaff and
shopkeepers were all very nice and polite. But I've gotten used to not
just "thank you" when I buy something but also "goodbye!". And if they
really like you, you'll get several good-byes -- Auf Wiedersehen,
Tschuess, Ciao. (Some of these are informal and are only used among
friends, but that's another discussion!)

Anyway, I'm glad we chose Graz! With a population of 225,000+, it's not
a huge city, but it is a good fit for us.

Sue

A Visit to the Lung Doctor

Background
I have lots of lung and sinus issues.  So, when I started having a productive cough in October, I didn't really do much about it.  I was feeling fine and it wasn't otherwise bothering me.  Until I got a serious cold in Salzburg.  When we got back to Graz, I called the lung doctor that our friend had recommended to us. I could get in the following Tuesday (6 days away).  I tried a couple of other options for seeing a dr. sooner, but given that no one seems to believe me when I'm sick, I decided to wait until I could see the specialist.

The Lung Doctor.

I left for my 10:30 appt early so I could have some time to find the office.  Turns out it was right across from the tram stop so I was plenty early to fill out forms as I usually would in the US.  I checked in, told the receptionist about my cough and was shown the waiting room - no forms to fill out - yay!  There were at least 5 people already waiting and it didn't look good since there's only one doctor in this office.  So I pulled out my book and waited. They were often calling 2 or 3 patients at once but still I waited.  More patients arrived.  More waiting.  Eventually, I began to wonder if I should put my book away so I would look like I was ready to be called. Given my ample waiting time, I had a chance to observe waiting room etiquette, which really isn't any different except that when a patient is finished being tested or has seen the dr, he or she leaves through the waiting room and says, "Auf Wiedersehen," or more often just, "Wiedersehen."  And most everyone in the room answers, "Wiedersehen."  At first I just thought it was two people who knew each other but it happened again and again.  I just love this, it's so endearing.

And then I was called.  I was greeted by a woman whom I'll call the technician because she and her partner were doing all the lab tests.  I don't actually know her name or her title.  The first thing she says is "Have you had allergy testing and when was the last time?"  About 4 years.  "Okay, we're going to do it right now," she answers, as she pulls out two strips of tape labeled 1-10 and tapes them to my forearm.  She drips out the serums (or whatever you call them) and then pricks my arm, wipes the needle and pricks, wipes, pricks, wipes until she's done.  Then she quickly helps someone else and then calls me to do a lung function test.  Breathe in here normally, then big deep breath in and then out.  Repeat 3 times. and then she sits me down in another corner, hands me a mouthpiece to breathe through and hooks me up to a machine to breathe through for 10 min.  I've done lung function tests before and it's not uncommon for them to give you some albuterol before you do it again, so I guessed that was what I was doing.  I had given them a list of medications I'm allergic to and those I take so I figured I was okay.  My timer went off and I turned off the machine and the technician comes running over to get me to do the lung function again.  This completed, I'm now ready to go to another waiting room to see the doctor.

More waiting.  It's nearly noon and I haven't seen the doctor.  Good thing Russ could pick up the kids. And then I'm called.  I go through the doctor's office, through another room to the x-ray room.  The doctor herself(!) does the x-rays.  I then wait in the middle room until she is done with a patient and then I'm in to see the doctor.  She doesn't speak English but the receptionist is there to translate.  But she doesn't actually translate.  They just talk to each other.  It's an odd feeling.  The receptionist shows the doctor my list of medications and the doctor says, "Ja. Cool."  Sorta funny.  There is much discussion about something so I say, I brought them all and plop my bag of prescriptions on the desk.  This pleases them very much and they inspect one to determine dosage, I think.  A couple of minor questions about medications and then the receptionist says, "Since you have so many allergies the doctor wants you to breathe the salt air for 10 more minutes and come back 2 more days to do this, 15 min. each time and see if this helps." Ah ha!  That's what that machine was!  Breathing the sea air.   My allergies are to antibiotics so no one wants to give them to me for fear I will develop an allergy to that one.  It's a valid concern.  I'm running out of the good ones.  I'm happy to try an alternative solution and see if it works.

Three things stand out for me about this visit.  1) No one took my temperature or blood pressure, looked into my ears or nose, or listened to my lungs. 2) I have never had allergy testing and a lung function test on the spot right in the doctor's office, without having to wait to get it scheduled - separately, with each lab.  3) The receptionist must have taken notes when I made my appointment about my having asthma and bronchiectasis.  They asked questions about it but I didn't bring it up first.  In my experience in the US, I repeat my ailments to everyone -- when I make the appt., when I get brought into exam room, when the dr. comes in.  I don't say that either way is right but it's just interesting and good to know for next time.  In the end, all the waiting didn't really bother me.  I've waited just as long as other places, and given how fast those technicians were good-naturedly working, I don't know how it couldn't gone faster.

Epilogue

I went into the office to breathe sea air for two more days, as instructed. On my last day, I'd had a horrible night of not being able to sleep because of all that I was coughing up.  The technician checked in with me both days and she suggested I should see the dr. again.  I agreed.  I didn't actually see the dr., but the receptionist took care of everything, checking with me about possible antibiotics and getting the prescription from the dr. for me.  She asked me to call next week to tell them how I am doing.

Five days later I'm feeling much better.  And I'm happy with my lung dr.'s office.  I feel like they listened to me and that's all I really want.

Sue

Lichterfest

In November kindergarten classes celebrate Lichterfest.  They make lanterns and learn songs during class, and then one evening they gather to celebrate a Festival of Light.  We joined Henry's school for their celebration on Nov. 3, at 5pm, just as it was starting to get dark.  All the parents and siblings waited outside (we were on a tennis court of the sports club next to Henry's school), and the three classes paraded out with their lanterns - lit with candles - and formed a big circle around the center objects shown to the right.

They sang songs together and, for a portion of the time, a smaller group of kids came forward and held candles and sang additional songs.  The songs were primarily about fall coming, summer ending and fire, water, earth and air.  We were told it is an old Celtic tradition.  (Incidentally, when in Salzburg, we learned that it was the Celts who discovered the salt mines.)  The thing that I enjoyed most about this ceremony was all the older siblings standing just behind the kindergarteners, heartily singing along.

Sue

A tip ...

Don't know if you've noticed this or not, but if you click on the pics, it will usually take you to a full-size version of it (if I've uploaded the right version of the pic in the first place).

Enjoy!
Russ

Salzburg Trip

Grace and Henry missing Jed in Salzburg

Last weekend Grace (but not Henry, interestingly) had a 5-day weekend.  Tuesday was a National Holiday (All Saints Day) and Wednesday was a school holiday (All Souls Day), so they threw in Monday as an "autonomous day" (which, we think, is similar to an "in service day" in the U.S.).  So, even though I just flew back from the U.S. on Tuesday (and that Wednesday was a holiday), we knew we had to use the 5-day weekend to travel.

We decided to travel to Salzburg, Austria, made famous from the movie, "The Sound of Music."  It is tucked into the northern part of the Alps, right on the border with Germany (not very close to Switzerland -- not sure how those von Trapp's walked all the way there!).  That means that our drive from Graz, on the southern edge of the Alps, was right through the Austrian Alps.  And with all those tunnels in Austria, it literally was right through the mountains!

Sue did a great job of researching things to do with kids and we had a few nice activities to choose from.  I got lucky with the hotel search engines and we landed in a good hotel that was about 1 mile from the center of the old part of the city and so every night we walked to town for dinner.  It was quite nice even if we went for Italian every night to avoid fights over food (Grace bragged that she ate Pizza Marguerite ohne Oregano every night!).

And speaking of nice, the weather was just gorgeous, with crystal blue skies, cold mornings, warm afternoons, and fall colors.  I can't imagine how the weather could have been any more enjoyable.

A view of Salzburg, from the Hohensalzburg Castle

Poor Grace gets wet at Hellbrunn!

Ok, so the activities.  The first big activity was to visit the Hellbrunn Palace.  This palace was quite distinctive, as the builder of the palace (early 1600's; prince-archbishop of Austria) had a nice sense of humor and incorporated "trick" fountains into a lot of buildings (including a big, outdoor table where jets of water squirted up through the seats on guests that tried to leave the table before the prince!).

What's this?  The Sound of Music gazebo, located on the Hellbrunn Palace grounds.

The palace grounds also had a big playground with those playground toys we really like in Austria.  We spent the whole day at the palace, taking tours, wandering up to another palace, playing in the park, etc.  Sue and I were both impressed that both children stayed engaged during a tour where you wore your own headset for a quick-paced tour through the main hall of the palace.

We actually enjoyed it so much, Grace and Henry accompanied me on a run on the grounds the next morning (Henry's first run ever!).

The other big activity was a visit to Salz Welten, a salt mine turned tourist attraction.  The tour of the mine included many forms of locomotion from a train that took us into the mine, lots of walking, a boat ride across a small lake in the mine, and the highlight, trips down the miner slides!  And then to get out, much to Henry's amazement, an escalator (I can still hear him clearly in my head ... "an escalator ... IN A MINE?!").

Three future miners (two happy and one not!)

Yes, even Honey Bear!

Feel those G's!

One of the things that I thought was really cool that down in the mine we traveled from Austria to Germany and then back again.  Reminds me of a hike in Virginia where you walk from VA to WV and back to VA, all in about 1 mile!

Welcome to Germany, coming from Österreich (Austria)

As you can see from this shot, the mine was up on a mountain, with beautiful views back to the Hohensalzburg Castle and Salzburg.

Ok, you can't actually see Hohensalzburg Castle from this tiny picture!

Other activities included a carriage ride through the city, riding the SchlossBahn up to the Hohensalzburg Castle, and general walking around.  We didn't go on the various Sound of Music tours, the Mozart tours (he's from there), or many of the museums.  There is plenty to do for another trip!

Our driver didn't speak much English, but it was still a nice ride

Castle building ... at a castle!

Medieval games :-)

Farewell from Salzburg!

Russ